Previously

Prologue: https://varunasok.com/2024/05/18/unraveling-uttarakhand-prologue/

Uttarakhand Diaries: Part 1: https://varunasok.com/2024/10/13/embarking-on-our-uttarakhand-adventure-from-dehradun-to-mussoories-heights/

April 5th, 2024: Bhatta fall to Haridwar

In the morning when I woke up, though I did not have fever, food was the last thing in my mind as the throat was extremely sore. Today was the day, we had to leave for Haridwar and we had asked our driver to come to the resort directly as they do allow cabs after 10 PM and before 6 AM. We had our breakfast and loaded our luggage and left for Haridwar via Dehradun. Enroute, we planned to see Bhatta fall, a Shiva and the famous Shirdi temple at Dehradun.

Bhatta Falls

After a short 30-minute drive from our stay, we arrived at Bhatta Falls. This stunning natural waterfall, nestled in a serene and untouched environment, is reachable by cable car. The sight of the valley surrounded by dense forests is simply mezmerizing.

We were the first ones to arrive, just as the ticketing counter opened, and we were lucky to take the first cable car down. Other than a slight jolt on the initial drop, the ride was smooth, and we were treated to an endless sea of greenery as we glided through the valley.

Halfway down, the real magic unfolded—an array of activities awaited us at the base. There was a swimming pool, water games, and as we ventured further, beautifully maintained gardens and vibrant flowers greeted us.

Only one other family arrived after us, which gave us plenty of peaceful moments to enjoy. A takeaway from our time in Uttarakhand: people here often start their day later, with most activities not kicking off before 10 AM. After exploring for about 30 minutes, we hopped back on the cable car and returned to the top.

Shri Prakasheshwar Mahadev Temple

Our next stop was the Shri Prakasheshwar Mahadev Temple, a famous and privately owned temple that is believed to be around 1,000 years old. The temple’s unique architecture is marked by Shiva’s tridents atop the terrace, and its walls are a striking mix of red, orange, and black.

The centre piece of the temple is a sphatik (crystal) Shivalinga. Under the shelter of an ancient tree in the temple complex, another Shivalinga is placed, exuding a peaceful energy. The sanctum sanctorum houses a divine image of Lord Shiva, adding to the spiritual atmosphere.

Sai Darbar Temple

Next, we visited the Sai Darbar Temple, a renowned temple near Rajpur Village in Dehradun. Surrounded by tranquil beauty, the temple’s architecture is equally magnificent, made of pristine marble. Inside, the central idol of Sai Baba commands attention, with open passageways on all four sides, making the ambiance serene and inviting. The temple also houses statues of other deities, including Lord Shiva, Hanuman, Goddess Durga, and Kali, creating a rich spiritual experience.

After finishing our darshan, we entered the bustling town of Dehradun. The city had all the hallmarks of a lively hub—wide roads, shops everywhere, and the familiar hum of city life. Soon, we reached our friend’s place for lunch. Despite my sore throat, the paneer and rajma gravy served were absolutely delicious, providing much-needed comfort after our morning adventures.

The drive to Haridwar was smooth, thanks to the four-lane highway that made for an easy journey. We arrived at our Shreshth Home Stay, where an elderly couple and their son welcomed us. It was a quaint two-storey house, and we were settled on the first floor. As we arrived, we were greeted with piping hot tea, which was a much-needed refreshment. After unpacking, we quickly hit the beds to recharge for the evening.

We woke up around 4 PM, excited to witness the much-anticipated Maha Aarti. Our driver dropped us off near the ghat, and even then, the crowd was already gathering. We agreed to meet up with him after the aarti at the same spot and made our way towards the riverbank.

The Maha Aarti

Haridwar is where the sacred Ganges descends from the Himalayas and enters the plains, and the river’s water has an astonishing blue-green tint. Out of sheer curiosity, we touched the water—bone-chilling cold! As we made our way to the front, the streets were lined with small shops on both sides, but the area wasn’t as clean as I had imagined. Despite being told that the cleanliness had vastly improved post-2014, it still didn’t seem up to par for me. I couldn’t help but wonder how things must have been before.

Finding tranquility in the midst of Ganges

We crossed a bridge that connected us to the main Aarti deck, which was already packed with devotees. From this vantage point, we found a decent spot to sit and soak in the atmosphere. People of all ages were jumping into the frigid water, and without drying themselves off, they sat near us, soaked but seemingly unfazed.

Maha Aarti Gallery: A chaotic scene unfolds as people leap in and out of the Ganges, all gearing up for the grand evening ritual.

The iconic clock tower at the Maha Aarti Deck: All eyes were on the clock as it ticked closer to 6 PM, signaling the start of the grand event.

Maha Aarti in full splendour: The sacred ceremony unfolds with divine chants, glowing lamps, and the serene Ganges flowing alongside—a truly mesmerizing experience.

The Aarti began just after 6:15 PM. Surrounded by the cool, fresh waters of the Ganges, the scent of agarbattis in the air, and the harmonious chants of the Aarti, the experience became something otherworldly. The energy was palpable, and for a few moments, I found my eyes welling up. It was as if the whole scene, with the river flowing peacefully and the prayers resonating all around, transported us to another realm.

Once the Aarti concluded, chaos ensued as the massive crowd tried to disperse. It took us nearly 20 minutes just to cover 50 meters in the car. Eventually, I decided to get down and look for a place to eat, and fortunately, I stumbled upon an Udupi restaurant serving South Indian food. While the meal was just average, it did the job. On our way back to the homestay, we picked up some fruits for the next day’s journey and finally returned to our room, tired but content, ready to rest after an eventful evening.

April 6th, 2024: A Chaotic Day

The next morning, we woke up at a relaxed pace. The plan for the day was simple: visit Manasa Devi Temple and head to Rishikesh. After checking out of the homestay, we bid farewell to the owners and loaded our luggage into the cab. Our driver looked particularly refreshed, and with a smile, he explained that it was thanks to his early morning dip in the Ganges. He proudly showed us the spot where he bathed, where the river was flowing with full force. We took a few pictures of the beautiful river before moving on.

Daksheswara Mahadev Temple

Our first stop was the Daksheswara Mahadev Temple, a revered site dedicated to Lord Shiva.

This temple holds deep significance in Hindu mythology as it is named after King Daksha Prajapati, the father of Sati, Shiva’s first wife. It was here, according to legend, that Sati sacrificed her life after being insulted by her father.

The current temple, a majestic structure, was originally built by Queen Dhankaur in 1810 and later reconstructed in 1962.

The history and atmosphere around the temple added a serene and sacred aura to our visit, setting the tone for the day ahead.

Flowing Ganges: The sacred river flows with a calming greenish tint, a serene reminder of nature’s beauty and the divine presence in Haridwar.

Manasa Devi Temple

We got down about a kilometer before reaching Manasa Devi Temple, and the area was teeming with people. After a quick breakfast at a nearby small hotel—where the food quality was, again, quite average—we began our walk. Another 20 minutes of navigating through the crowd led us to the foot of the hill. We opted for express tickets to take the cable car up, as walking through the crowd itself was exhausting. After finally reaching the top, we were just 50 meters from the sanctum sanctorum, but that’s when the reality hit hard.

The crowd was overwhelming. Fearing for my child’s safety, the risk of a stampede weighed heavily on my mind. We made the difficult yet wise decision to turn back without completing the darshan. It was one of those moments I was glad we prioritized safety. We called our driver to pick us up and set off for Rishikesh, still shaken by what could have happened.

Drive to Rishikesh

The drive from Haridwar to Rishikesh is supposed to take just an hour. However, about 20 minutes in, we were abruptly stopped. A railway crossing on a four-lane highway? It seemed out of place. But even after that, we didn’t move. The cause? A VIP movement. Already tired and drained, waiting there for two hours was frustrating. I got out and grabbed some snacks, milk, and juice to keep us hydrated, and after what felt like an eternity, we were finally allowed to move.

Reaching Rishikesh brought its own set of challenges. Our stay at Perfectstayz was difficult to locate, and after a few wrong turns, we finally arrived and ordered dinner. But the day’s misadventures weren’t over yet. The stay had two phases, about 200 meters apart, and as luck would have it, our booking under the name “Varun” was at the other location. Having already unloaded all our luggage, I insisted we weren’t going to move. It was the last straw in a long, tiring day, and to top it off, we hadn’t visited any of the places in Rishikesh. Accepting that it wasn’t our day, we decided to retire for the night.

To Be Continued…